Try Container Gardening
by Don Janssen, Extension Educator
While the lack of space is a reason to try container gardening, that is not the only reason this method is chosen. Often, convenience plays a big part. The mobility of container gardening makes it easy to rearrange and resculpture your garden and to add new elements of interest and beauty. So, if you choose containers, what are the needs of good container gardening?
Containers are available in many sizes, shapes, and materials. All containers, whether clay, wood, plastic, or ceramic, should have an adequate number of holes in the bottom for proper drainage. Setting the container on a solid surface, such as a cement or patio floor, reduces drainage. Raising the container one or two inches off the floor by setting it on blocks of wood will solve this problem.
The container's size will be determined by the plant to select. Generally, most plants grown in the soil can be grown in containers as long as ample space is provided for them to develop roots. Shallow-rooted crops like lettuce, peppers, radishes, herbs and most annuals need a container at least 6 inches in diameter with an 8-inch soil depth. Bushel baskets, half barrels, or wooden tubs are ideal for growing tomatoes, squash, pole beans, cucumbers, and deep-rooted perennials.
A fairly lightweight mix is needed for container gardening. Soil straight from the garden usually cannot be used in a container because it is too heavy. It holds too much moisture when wet, resulting in too little air for the roots. Also, it pulls away from the sides of the pot when dry.
Container medium must be porous in order to support plants, because roots require both air and water. Some packaged potting soil available at local garden centers is relatively lightweight and may make a good container medium.
For a large container garden, the expense of prepackaged or soil-less mixes may be high. Try mixing your own with one part peat moss or compost, one part garden loam, and one part clean coarse (builder's) sand, and a slow-release fertilizer (14-14-14) added according to container size.
Fertilize plants with the recommended rate of a water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks. An occasional application of fish emulsion or compost tea will add trace elements to the soil. Do not add more than the recommended rate of any fertilizer. Unlike garden plants, container plants do not have the buffer of large volumes of soil and humus to protect them from over-fertilizing.
Pay close attention to watering container plants. Because the volume of soil is relatively small, containers can dry out very quickly, especially if they are on a concrete patio in full sunlight. Daily or twice-daily watering may be necessary. Apply water until it runs out the drainage holes.
Water clay pots and other porous containers more frequently, since they allow additional evaporation for the sides of the pots. Small pots also tend to dry out more quickly than larger ones. Apply a mulch over the soil in the pot.
The amount of sunlight a container garden will receive may determine which crops can be grown. Check light requirements for the specific plants selected for the containers.
(This resource was updated March 2007 and appeared in the Lincoln Journal Star Newspaper Sunday edition. For information on reproducing this article or using any photographs or graphics, read the Terms of Use statement)
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