Winter Protection for Roses
by Don Janssen, Extension Educator
The days are getting shorter and there is an ever present nip in the air - the outdoor gardening season is coming to a close. The frigid temperatures always seem to invade too soon. For wasn't it just yesterday we were enjoying bright floral displays, garden ripe tomatoes, and the scent of rose blossoms? In order to reap the same rewards from the garden next year, it is necessary to take some protective steps this fall. Roses are often at the top of gardener's list for winter protection.
While there are some native and old fashion shrub roses that can stand up to old man winter, most of the modern roses (such as hybrid tea, floribunda, and grandiflora) need a helping hand to live through our coldest season. Often times it's not the low temperatures that damage rose bushes, rather rapid temperature changes and repeated freezing and thawing do the most damage.
First of all, a healthy rose bush is much more likely to make it through the winter than a weak, pest-infested bush. Control insects and diseases during the growing season. Also, gardeners should not fertilize rose bushes after July 31. Succulent late season growth will be too tender to handle winter conditions and could lead to winter injury. Stop deadheading roses in late summer. The development of rose hips promotes hardening of plants in preparation for winter.
Remove diseased leaf debris around the base of the rose plant. This should reduce disease problems next year. Tie the canes together with twine to prevent whipping of the canes during strong winds.
A protective mound of soil around the base of a rose is essential. If you have limited time to prepare your roses for winter, this is the one step you don't want to skip. Protect the lower portion of the rose bush with an eight to twelve inch mound of well-drained soil. The soil used to make the mound should be brought to the rose bush from another location; do not remove soil from the rose's root zone to make a mound. Roses should be covered with soil a couple of weeks before the ground freezes - mid to late November is often recommended.
For added protection a layer of mulch can be placed over the mound of soil. Bark, wood chips, or straw can be used. Hold the mulch in place with evergreen bows or chicken wire fencing.
Remove the soil and mulch in the spring, usually early April. With our variable weather, there is always a chance a spring cold spell could strike. During an extended period of freezing temperatures, recover the rose bush temporarily.
Climbing roses are more of a challenge in terms of winter protection. The base of the plant must be covered with soil and a layer of mulch. Then the canes need protection from the cold drying winds of winter. Begin by wrapping the canes in chicken wire. Place leaves or straw between the canes and the wire mesh. Wrap the wire mesh with landscape cloth to keep the mulch in place. Climbing roses can be uncovered with all other roses in the spring.
A little work in the rose bed this fall will be rewarded with vigorous bushes next spring.
(This resource was updated October 2005 and appeared in the Lincoln Journal Star Newspaper Sunday edition. For information on reproducing this article or using any photographs or graphics, read the Terms of Use statement)
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